53 Directions

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Directions for 53

Greetings and welcome to the house. You will have some important duties here. Most of them have to do with yard maintenance, but you should be aware of all the do's and don'ts as well.

Pool Maintenance

Basic Concepts

The pool must be maintained every day, or possibly every other day, which may end up being more work. The basic idea is to keep the pool clean for esthetics and to prevent algae or other bacterial issues, and to keep the pool water chemistry safe and pleasant.

The pool is kept safe by *free chlorine*, which is dissolved chlorine available to attack bacteria, etc. Chlorine comes from one or more 3 inch tablets inserted into the floating chlorine dispenser. Once per week, or when there is a problem, the pool gets a 4x overdose of chlorine in the form of *pool shock*, which kills everything but is irritating to the skin until the chlorine returns to normal levels.

The pool chemistry is tested using pool test strips once per day. If the chlorine level is too high or low, we adjust a ring on the floating dispenser to expose less or more drain opening. If the strip shows little or no chlorine, the pool should be shocked that evening just at sunset, but after the pool has been used for the day. The pool should not be used until the next morning when the chlorine level has declined to a high-normal value (although if you don't mind bleaching your hair a bit, go ahead).

Free chlorine is consumed by decaying organic material and sunlight. Some may evaporate. Accordingly, chlorine must continuously be replenished. A pool full of leaves and other stuff consumes free chlorine rapidly. That is one reason to keep the pool as clean as possible. The other reason is to prevent the filter from being clogged by organic material.

The pool water is filtered by a 1000 gallons/hour pump. The pool holds 3750 gallons. This pump should run at least 8 hours per day, but we run it all 24 hours because we want the clearest water. This pump has a filter that needs to be replaced and cleaned (to recycle the filter). Do this when you notice that the pool water outlet stream is not breaking the surface of the pool, which means the filter is clogged, or there is air in the system. The pump and filter work correctly only when there is no air in the plumbing. A seemingly small amount of air significantly degrades the pump efficiency.

Air is removed by bleeding it from the pump and the outlet. A clogged filter must be changed with a recycled (or new) filter.

Daily Routine

  • Check the pump outlet stream. It should be breaking the surface, with lots of happy bubbles.
    • If not, the filter is clogged or there is air in the system, or the pump is off.
    • Purge any air now. You change the filter last.
  • Check the pool chemistry. Measure free chlorine, pH, and alkalinity.
    • If the free chlorine is too low or high, adjust the dispenser.
  • Check the floating chlorine dispenser. If the chlorine tablet almost gone (not at full diameter), add a new tablet.
  • Skim the pool using the skimmer jammed onto the wooden broom handle.
    • All kinds of stuff accumulates under the side rings, dig it out.
  • Observe the pool bottom for sunken stuff.
    • This stuff destroys the free chlorine.
    • If there is a significant amount, it should be vacuumed out.
    • A few leaves can be lifted out using the skimmer by scooping down, scraping the bottom, and scooping up. Little stuff tends to disperse with this method.
  • If required, vacuum the pool
  • If required change the filter.
  • Done!

Pump is Off

  • Make sure extension cord is plugged into outdoor outlet strip, and into the house by the side door.
  • Listen for the radon fan. If not running, the outlet may have tripped.
    • Press the reset button on the side door outlet to reset the GPF circuit. If tripped, it will click.
    • If the fan is running, take the cover off the outdoor outlet strip, and observe the big pump plug. It is so large, it barely fits into the strip. Remove it and push it in again firmly.

Purge the Air

You can see air bubbles in the clear hoses. These should be tiny or none.

  • Remove the cover from the outdoor outlet strip.
  • Unplug the pump (the big black plug).
    • Don't press the *Test* button, or you will have to reset the GFI outlet on the side of the house.
  • Unscrew the flower shaped air vent knob on top of the pump so that air and some water will flow out.
  • Shake the pump to get the last of the air in the pump, then tighten the air vent enough to stop the water.
  • Check the outlet for air bubbles. Unscrew the vent on the outlet and press down to let the air escape. Close the vent.
  • Plug the pump plug back in firmly to restore operation.
  • Check that the extension cord is draped over the radon fan (to reduce problems from rain).

Check the Pool Chemistry

Test strips are contained in the cylindrical container that also contains a measurement key.

  • With completely dry hands, open the container and remove one test strip.
  • Close the container tightly and take both to the pool.
  • Submerge the strip 6 inches under water and count zero, one, two, then remove the strip and shake the water off.
  • Quickly in daylight, compare the colors on the strip with the colors on the container. Measure free chlorine, pH, and alkalinity.
  • Note the readings. The most important is the first, free chlorine.


Check the Floating Dispenser

  • Use the skimmer to acquire the dispenser.
  • Unscrew the top. Look inside.
  • If the chlorine tablet is almost gone (not at full diameter), add a new tablet from the supplies.
  • Replace the cap.
  • If necessary, adjust the outlet ring.

Skim the Pool

  • Use the skimmer jammed onto the wooden broom handle. Twist and jam to keep it stable.
    • Pay attention to which side of the skimmer has the flotsam. Don't reverse sides!
  • All kinds of stuff accumulates under the side rings, dig it out.
  • You can try to get some submerged material as well, but if you stir things up too much, you will have to wait to vacuum it until it sinks to the bottom.

Vacuum the Pool

  • Check the pool vacuum filter.
    • Twist to unlock the top.
    • Remove and examine the net filter. It should be reasonably clean.
      • It must not have algae or mold on it. If so, wash it using in the sink with dish washing liquid.
    • Place the clean filter into the vacuum and lock the head.
    • Shake any dirt, etc., off of the hose. Make sure the hose is firmly attached to the head.
  • Set up the inlets for vacuuming
    • Take a top hat plug and the hose adapter from the pool parts bag.
    • Reach into the pool, unscrew, and remove the strainer from the inlet nearest the outlet. Put the top hat plug on the input to block it.
    • Unscrew and remove the other strainer. Screw the hose adapter onto the inlet.
    • Sink the vacuum head slowly into the water. Hold onto the long handle or it will fall in.
    • Slowly press the hose that is out of the water straight down into the water, waiting for the hose to fill.
    • Continue pressing the hose straight down and filling until all the hose is under water.
    • Holding the handle, twist the free hose end into the hose adapter. The vacuum is now vacuuming!
  • Vacuum the pool
    • It works going forward on the bottom. Don't try to catch something not on the bottom.
    • Press forward and glide slowly, trying to not create much turbulence.
    • After a forward stroke, lift up somewhat and pull back to not disturb the bottom.
    • Repeat.
    • Go to where the water is clear, so you can see what you are doing.
    • Get nearly everything you can see.
    • Use the skimmer to get anything left floating in the water.

Change the Filter

You can keep the pump on the ground, but then you have to block the 2 inlets and the outlet with the top hat plugs in the pool bag. This is too much work.

  • Move the pool ladder next to the pump.
  • Get a clean filter ready to go.
  • Unplug the pump.
  • Lift the pump to the second ladder step.
  • Unscrew the flower shaped purge valve. Air will enter the pump because it is higher than the pool water level.
  • Unscrew (CCW) the pump holder ring on the top. This takes some force. Remove the ring.
  • Carefully remove the top using the purge valve ring to expose the pump. Don't lose the large rubber O ring seal.
  • Pull up to remove the dirty filter.
  • Dump out the water in the pump. It likely contains lots of flecks of organic material. Do it again if necessary.
  • Twist the clean filter onto the holder on the pump bottom.
  • Replace the top, and screw the retainer ring. It doesn't need to be so tight.
  • Lower the pump to the ground, and purge the air from the system (above)
  • Plug the pump plug in firmly. Don't press the *Test* button. Check for happy bubbles.
  • Take the dirty filter inside to the kitchen sink, and clean it.

Clean the Dirty Filter

Before the filter has a chance to dry and harden, it should be cleaned. There are three stages of cleaning, initial, detailed, and touchup.

  • Initial Cleaning
    • Clear one side of the sink.
    • Using the hot water spray, spray the insides of each of the about 82 folds in the filter to remove the worst of the loose stuff.
      • One side of the filter has the letter 'A' on it. Start there, and go around until you are there again.
      • Use your finger to separate the folds as you spray it.
      • If the water is too hot, add cold water so that it is not uncomfortable.
  • Detailed Cleaning
    • Use a knife or fingernail to scrape the inner fold to remove the layer of junk. Get both top and bottom, where stuff accumulates. This stuff is not dangerous, just mother nature's waste. Do all 82 folds.
    • Quickly spray at an angle to remove stains that are on the filter outside edges, both sides.
    • Let the filter dry for a day or more. It should be quite dry.
  • Touchup
    • Use a knife or fingernail to remove fibres or material that was sticky when wet.
  • Store dry as long as possible before reuse. Rotate the filters.

Done!

Mosquito Trap Maintenance

Garden Care

Yard Care

Tips and Tricks

There are two separate air conditioning systems. One for the first floor and basement, the other for the second floor. The second floor system feeds the garage office as well. The thermostat for the second floor is in the master bedroom. The first floor thermostat is below that on the first floor.

Do's and Don'ts