MM Defender IOT Controller Construction Details

MM Defender IOT Controller Add-On Construction Details

This is a rather large topic under construction. Current progress is about 30%.

Recent posts on the Mosquito Magnet Forum have described a replacement controller that any DIY type can build and install. Poor quality control plus harsh outdoor environments has lead to some controllers becoming faulty with age. Additionally, the original controller makes it quite difficult to troubleshoot a non-working trap. Many have been wishing for a replacement that can help keep these marvelous devices working into the future. The MM Defender IOT Controller article describes one approach, but is lacking details on how to actually construct and implement the device. This article will supply more details. It is, however, necessary to discuss a few matters regarding this MM Defender IOT Controller design, which partially explains why this topic was not written earlier.

Hazard Warning

First, the Mosquito Magnet traps use propane gas, which is flammable, and therefore dangerous. The original trap designers took great pains to make sure the trap would be safe. This is why the trap shuts down if everything is not "just so." While frustrated users being bitten might say that the designers were being overly conservative and unnecessarily cautious, DIYers have not done the extensive analysis that is customary for a manufacturer of a potentially dangerous device.

Making and deploying a substitute controller, or any modification of a dangerous device, can be regarded as a risky or even reckless action. If something goes wrong, and there is an explosion, poisoning, or other calamity resulting in loss of life and limb, or property damage, do you want to have had a hand in the chain of events that even possibly might have caused it?

Second, the construction, modification, and installation requires tools and instruments plus experience with PCBs and micro component soldering. Those without the right tools or skills will find this project too difficult. Once modified, it is relatively easy but *not* trivial to revert to the original controller. If the modified system does not work, you may be stuck. Additionally, other than the PIC microcontroller, the original controller must be working because those the IOT Controller Add-on just substitutes for the PIC. However, it is the failure of some of the parts of the original controller that might have caused the problems in the first place. The add-on controller is helpful to identify those issues.

Third, the controller is an experimental device intended for use by experts to troubleshoot a non-working trap, and not as a permanent replacement for the original controller. As presently implemented, it lacks important features required for a permanent deployment. These are, in part, adequate mechanical support (mounting to the device), weatherproofing, and of course, safety and functionality certification and validation. Currently, the controller is supported only by the wires connecting it to the original controller PCB. Because it is not fully insulated, it must be positioned just so to avoid shorting to the trap metal parts. Although electrical insulation and some weatherproofing could be mostly jury-rigged by covering the controller with a plastic bag, this is not what anyone would call a real solution.

Because it is an experimental device, it should be easily accessible for updating or substitution, which is done quickly to avoid excessive mosquito bites while doing so. This requires removing the catch basket and top cover. It is not easy to remove the top cover screws, so some may choose leave the screws out, which presents another potential hazard.

Under no circumstances do we want anyone to endanger any life or property. Any servicing or modification of the trap is a dangerous undertaking. You should label any modified trap with a warning. Once your trap is working reliably, you should uninstall the controller add-on and revert to the original, unless you are engaged in active development. Remember, the add-on will not work reliably over the years due to lack of mechanical support and weatherproofing.

These remarks, of course, apply to all DIY modifications, not just this one, which is intended only for troubleshooting and development. Be cautious even if you improve upon the design.

Photos

Nothing to be too proud of here. Some burned insulation, scattered wires, no strain relief anywhere. Click on a picture to see it larger.

• 

  Loose placement of IOT Controller Add-On with optional Temp/Humidity sensor

• 

  Controller with NodeMCU and Temp/Humidity attached

• 

  Front (or right hand side) view of IOT Controller Add-On showing 15 pin header wiring

• 

  Rear (or left hand side) view of IOT Controller Add-On showing power and thermistor connections

• 

  Placement of IOT Controller Add-On Wires on Original PCB.

There are 10 wires connecting the Add-On headers to the original controller, and 4 more connecting to the optional Temperature/Humidity sensor, which itself is flying off the Add-On. Nice work! Observe the utter lack of strain relief and mechanical support, other than the 10 wires. This is not recommended for long-term use. Note how easily the NodeMCU module or its uninsulated pins can come into contact with the metal trap parts. Be careful, or insulate, mount somehow, or all three. Generally, the connecting wires are soldered to the most rugged attachment points available, through hole terminals if available, or soldered to a component and its pad if not. However, 2 wires are soldered only to pads, and these are fragile. Some notes:

• C4 is effectively removed by cutting the foil to it (to the right of the middle white wire)
• On the board, the PIC controller has been completely removed (because it was fried). Otherwise, unsolder and lift pin 4 from its pad on +5v, and solder a very thin 1 strand jumper between the lifted pin and the adjacent pin #5. This sets the MCLR/ signal low, which effectively disconnects the PIC.
• Note the jumper between pin 14 and the top of R5 or pin 11. This connects VDD to R5 20k0.
• VDD is disconnected from +5v by cutting a foil on the bottom of the PCB.
• VDD is connected to +3.3v from the NodeMCU via the left orange wire.
• The right hand white and orange wires connect to the original ground and +5v rails near the electrolytic cap. These go to the rear or left hand side connector pins.
• The single pin white wire connects the ADC input to the bottom of R5.
• The WiFi antenna is on the front of the NodeMCU, and the USB connector is on the back. There is also a reset and a flash button, and 2 status LEDs.

Basic Steps

1. Thoroughly read the MM Defender Controller and MM Defender IOT Controller wiki pages.
2. #Assemble Tools and Supplies
3. #Test and Fix the Original Controller
4. #Acquire Materials
5. #Set up Development PC & Software
6. #Program and Test Module(s)
7. #Build the Wiring Harness
8. #Modify the Controller PCB
9. #Attach the Harness
10. #Initial Test Outside Trap
11. #Install Modified Controller into Trap
12. #Move Trap to Operating Location
13. #Final Test
14. #Monitor from PC and Phone

Assemble Tools and Supplies

You will need the following tools, equipment, and supplies:

• 10x (opt. plus 50x) Stereo Microscope with illumination to clearly see what you are doing.
• Soldering iron with micro tip.
• Solder, solder flux, fine solder wick, PCB cleaner, alcohol, and brushes for cleaning.
• DeOxit or similar for cleaning switch and connector contacts.
• Micro tweezers for surface mount device (SMD) placement and manipulation.
• A medical syringe is helpful for prying and scraping.
• Volt-Ohm Meter (VOM) with suitable test leads.
• Clip leads for testing, plus a 1k or so resister to force the driver transistors.
• Oscilloscope, single or dual channel, calibrated, with probes. 10 MHz or higher. 1 MHz might work with allowances, not tested.
• Diagonal cutter and wire stripper for fine (e.g., 20-28) gauge wire.

Test and Fix the Original Controller

If the original controller is not working, or even if it is, it is a good idea to remove it, clean it, and inspect it thoroughly. The PCB is lightly (inadequately) sealed with a sealer for weatherproofing. Accordingly, you have to scrape off the sealant to probe a pad.

• Measure the resistances of the fan (?? Ohms), igniter (20 Ohms??), solenoid (?? Ohms), and thermistor (200 kOhms). If these are either too low or too high, they must be replaced. (?? what are the limits ??)
• Measure the resistance across C4. Disconnect the thermistor. Attach the VOM negative lead to the negative (ground) terminal of power supply filter cap C2 (large 3300 uF @ 25v) and the positive lead to J1 terminal 1. The resistance should be in the meg-Ohm range. If it is low (e.g., 20 kOhms), your controller is suffering from the "C4 PCB contamination" issue discussed on the controller wiki page. If low,
  • Carefully unsolder C4 (ca 120 nf ceramic, was previously marked 150 nf). Remove the coating from the pcb in the vicinity of the pads. Thoroughly clean the PCB between the pads. Measure the resistance again until it is in the meg-Ohm range. Measure C4, then carefully strip and clean as necessary until infinite resistance is obtained. Build up a solder blob on each mounting pad. Solder C4 to the blog to allow space underneath for cleaning. Thoroughly clean and measure. When in the meg-Ohm range, seal the area with a PCB sealer. Use two coats.
• With the 'scope, measure the power supply voltages and ripple voltages. See that the ripples are symmetrical, and not too large for the D1 C2 +20v supply. The large bridge rectifier D2 has no filter cap, and will show all ripples. Attach the igniter and ground the J5 pin 2 lead to power the igniter, and see that the voltage does not just collapse. The RMS value should be appropriate for the 12 volts igniter. The igniter should light up, and be hot enough to ignite a propane torch. This also tests the power supply and long low voltage cord. If there is a problem with insufficient power, check the AC side of the supply to isolate the problem to the supply/cord or D2 rectifier bridge.
• Measure the +12 and +5v rails, they should be without ripple.
• Attach the fan, thermistor, switch, and gas valve solenoid. Power the unit again, and observe the low (ground) side of the Igniter, Fan, and Valve go from +12 to 0 volts as the driver transistors switch on. Check the switch LED to see that it flashes on power up.

If any of these tests fail, there is a problem with either the driver transistors, the controller, or the switch that must be fixed before the IOT Controller Add-On can be used.

• • Check the switch terminal to see that it goes between +5v (off) and ground (on) when actuated. Make sure that wiggling the wires to the switch has no effect in either position.
  • Use the 1 kOhm or so resister in series with a test lead connected to +5v rail (signal, supply voltage) to test the driver transistors. (You may have to scrape a pad on (e.g., on C7) and possibly solder a small piece of solid wire to access this rail.). Measure the voltage across the fan, igniter, and valve terminals to see that it goes on when the 1 kOhm signal is applied to the gate or base of the driver transistors. If not, the driver is defective, or possibly the igniter, fan, or valve solenoid is shorted.

If these tests are passed, perhaps you have fixed the problem, and can use your trap as is, provided the controller works. Try it. If working, catch some mosquitos and stop here. If not, you can continue with the IOT Controller Add-On.

Acquire Materials

• 1 or more ESP8266 ESP-12E NodeMCU modules, from any number of vendors, e.g., "MakerFocus ESP8266 NodeMCU LUA CP2102 ESP-12E Internet WiFi Development Board Serial Wireless Module." Cost about $12 for 2 (get 4).
• (optional) 1 or more HTU21D Temperature/Humidity module, e.g., "HiLetgo HTU21D Temperature Humidity Sensor Breakout Module I2C IIC 1.5V-3.6V." Cost about $7 for 2.
• 1 40 pin female header strip, e.g., "10 Pcs 40 Pin 2.54mm Pitch Straight Single Row PCB Female Pin Headers." You should already have these, but the cost of about $6 for 10 pieces, yields a lifetime supply.
• Several colors of thin (28-32) gauge, stranded, flexible, very high quality hookup wire with high temperature PVC or Teflon insulation. This example uses white, red, blue, orange, yellow, violet, and brown. Try to "borrow" the short lengths of wire from a "friend," otherwise it could get expensive to buy wire for this project. Do not use stiff or cheap wire. It will break with handling, or tear the PCB board.
• Heat shrink tubing is useful for insulating the terminals on the rear or left hand side of the module.

Set up Development PC & Software

The most convenient tools are java apps. Also, there is a python module that downloads the lua environment onto a new NodeMCU

1. Install Java, if not installed.
2. Connect the ESP-12E Module to the PC via USB. If necessary, install the CP2102 Drivers to create a new COM port
3. Download and install ESPlorer, a java Integrated Development Environment (IDE) for ESP8266 developers.
4. Download and install mqtt-spy, a java MQTT client.
5. Download NodeMCU Flasher for Windows or the python esptool.py.exe. There are many options available, pick the one you most prefer.

Flash and Test the Module(s)

Install the NodeMCU lua environment

1. Go to NodeMCU Cloud build service and select the following 11 sub-modules:

adc, enduser_setup, file, gpio, i2c, mqtt, net, node, tmr, uart, wifi. Submit the build request, and come back later when the build is complete, and download the built binary.

1. You may choose (why???) to download a development branch or a master branch.
2. Flash the module to install the NodeMCU lua environment. For example, to install the version 11 development branch floating point version.

esptool.py.exe -p COM3 write_flash -fs 32m -ff 80m --flash_mode dio 0x00000 C:\mmdefender\Install\nodemcu-dev-11-modules-2018-07-21-20-46-15-float.bin
esptool.py v2.3.1
Connecting....
Detecting chip type... ESP8266
Chip is ESP8266EX
Features: WiFi
Uploading stub...
Running stub...
Stub running...
Configuring flash size...
Flash params set to 0x024f
Compressed 458752 bytes to 297898...
Wrote 458752 bytes (297898 compressed) at 0x00000000 in 26.4 seconds (effective 139.0 kbit/s)...
Hash of data verified.
Leaving...
Hard resetting via RTS pin...

1. Open ESPlorer and select COM3 or whatever port the module is using. Press the module reset button. ESPlorer responds:

Formatting file system. Please wait...
NodeMCU custom build by frightanic.com

branch: dev commit: fd745e0981ca2c4d425c966334cef67180f0cb63 SSL: false modules: adc,enduser_setup,file,gpio,i2c,mqtt,net,node,tmr,uart,wifi

build created on 2018-07-21 20:45
powered by Lua 5.1.4 on SDK 2.2.1(6ab97e9)
lua: cannot open init.lua

Not opening init.lua is a good thing, because nothing is programmed into the unit yet. Pressing the FS Info button shows:

Total : 3447234 bytes
Used  : 0 bytes
Remain: 3447234 bytes

onto which we will load the firmware.

Install the MM IOT Controller Software

• Download and unzip the latest software into a folder.
• For each file in the release, upload the file into the NodeMCU module.
• Press the right hand "Reload" button to display the files in the module.
• For each .lua file uploaded, except init.lua, right click the entry and select "Compile xxx to lc." The compiled files take less program memory, which is very scarce.
• Press and release the RTS button to reset the module, and notice the additional output after the "powered by Lua" sign-on, e.g.,

39024
'tmr.stop(6)' within 5 seconds to stop running

• You have 5 seconds to type "tmr.stop(6)" on the bottom command bar and hit send, otherwise the main controller program starts. You would do this to upload a modified source file and compile it for your next revision of the software.

Test the MM IOT Controller Software

Press and release RTS to restart the unit and wait for it to start. The following assumes you have connected the optional htu21d module, otherwise you will receive maximum external temperature and humidity readings:

39024
'tmr.stop(6)' within 5 seconds to stop running
> 38176
starting system
30416
30472
25176
23712
15640
15984
Wifi...
12752
8896

These declining numbers are the number of free CPU memory. If the lua OS runs out of memory, it panics and restarts.

Temp=-43.7C (-43.7) at 0:0 F=0 I=0 G=0 S=0 E=0 T=25C H=46.6% M=9752 (9/9:18804706) R=70~140 B=-19.0 V=3.1
state = 0 was 7 at 1 (0)
Temp=-43.7C (0) at 0:0 F=0 I=0 G=0 S=0 E=0 T=25C H=46.5% M=9584 (9/9:18804706) R=70~140 B=-19.0 V=3.1
Temp=-43.7C (0) at 0:1 F=0 I=0 G=0 S=0 E=0 T=25C H=46.5% M=8176 (9/9:18804706) R=70~140 B=-19.0 V=3.1
Temp=-43.7C (0) at 0:2 F=0 I=0 G=0 S=0 E=0 T=25C H=46.3% M=8200 (9/9:18804706) R=70~140 B=-19.0 V=3.1
Temp=-43.7C (0) at 0:3 F=0 I=0 G=0 S=0 E=0 T=25C H=46.2% M=8208 (9/9:18804706) R=70~140 B=-19.0 V=3.1

After you set up the wifi connection, you will get

Connected to wifi as:(omitted)
9208
Starting Web Server...
Connecting to: test.mosquitto.org:1883 User: Pwd: ID:11823997
Subscribing to: /test/MMD/esp11823997Q
Ok
Temp=-43.7C (0) at 0:4 F=0 I=0 G=0 S=0 E=0 T=25C H=46.2% M=6232 (9/9:18804706) R=70~140 B=0.0 V=3.1

At some point, the OS starts garbage collection, and the free memory rises to about 11 kbytes:

Temp=-43.7C (0) at 0:5 F=0 I=0 G=0 S=0 E=0 T=25C H=46.2% M=7320 (9/9:18804706) R=70~140 B=0.0 V=3.1
Temp=-43.7C (0) at 0:6 F=0 I=0 G=0 S=0 E=0 T=25C H=46.2% M=7304 (9/9:18804706) R=70~140 B=0.0 V=3.1
Temp=-43.7C (0) at 0:12 F=0 I=0 G=0 S=0 E=0 T=25C H=46.4% M=7312 (9/9:18804706) R=70~140 B=0.0 V=3.1
Temp=-43.7C (0) at 0:13 F=0 I=0 G=0 S=0 E=0 T=25C H=46.4% M=11304 (9/9:18804706) R=70~140 B=0.0 V=3.1
Temp=-43.7C (0) at 0:14 F=0 I=0 G=0 S=0 E=0 T=25C H=46.3% M=11344 (17/16:18804706) R=70~140 B=0.0 V=3.1
Temp=-43.7C (0) at 0:17 F=0 I=0 G=0 S=0 E=0 T=25C H=46.2% M=11352 (17/17:18804706) R=70~140 B=0.0 V=3.1

and so on.

Configure the WiFi

When not connected to a wireless network, the controller creates its own access point named "SetupGadget_######" where '#' is some number.

• Connect to that access point, and open in a browser any web address (e.g., google.com or http://t.c) to display a web page with a list of access points with good reception.
  • Note: the controller access point and web page is on only when the controller does not have a wireless connection.

• Select or enter an SSID and enter the password. The controller will try to connect and display the IP address it has received via DHCP (e.g., 192.168.1.32).

Configure the MQTT Client

• Open the controller's web page with the above address followed by :8080, e.g., 192.168.1.32:8080
• Here you can control the unit's mqtt settings, and change the WiFi settings as well. You can change and save the access point, or just restore the defaults to erase it.
• If you can now access this web page, the controller does have a wireless connection, so its access point is not on.
• If it doesn't work, restart or power cycle the controller to start over.

Test the MQTT Reporting

Although the ESPlorer console displays the controller status, when deployed, the controller gets its power from the original controller +5v rail, not the usb. Do not connect the USB to a powered on trap. The results are unpredictable, and not good. You may damage your PC or the original controller, or who knows what? You may have to remove the controller from the trap to use the usb connection.

• Open mqtt-spy and create a connection to whatever mqtt server was specified on the controller web page. Look for the specific topic configured. You should see your data stream match the info on the console.
• You can configure mqtt-spy to save a log file, with size rotation, etc. This is very helpful to troubleshoot problems over several days worth of operation. You will need an editor (e.g., notepad++) that can open a large text file, and update the file as new data is appended.

When you have all of this working, you can continue to building the wiring harness, modifying the controller, and installing the Add-On.

Build the Wiring Harness

• Cut a 40 or so pin 100 mil female header down to 15 pins. Sand the cut edge so you don't get injured.
• Cut appropriate lengths of colored wire. The initial prototype shown here might have the wires a tad short. The Add-On should not suffer from tight wires.
• Solder one end of each wire to the appropriate pin on the header. Your colors may differ from these:

position	color	net	destination
16	orange	3.3v !! HTU21D '+'
17	white	ground	HTU21D '-'
18	brown	LED	R2 and PIC #1
19	n/c	n/c	n/c
20	yellow	Gas	R10 and PIC #8
21	violet	switch	J1 pin 1
22	blue	FAN	via & PIC pin 7
23	green	thermlo	R5
24	white	ground	J1 pin 2
25	orange	3.3v, VDD	J1 pin 3
26	yellow	SDL	HTU21D SDL
27	violet	SDA	HTU21D SDA
28	n/c	n/c	n/c
29	red	Example
30	brown	LED	R2 and PIC #1